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Rain, rain go away!
Come again another day.
Kailani wants to getaway.
Rain, rain go away!

This month, thick and looming clouds casted dark shadows over our region and bombed innocent people with fat raindrops. At times, the rain poured down in torrents. Other times, it fell gently but relentlessly for days… days… and more days. It’s been raining A LOT here in the Southeast. So much so, that we had indoor recess almost all week at school. But these clouds have a silver lining: our waterfalls are bursting.

This weekend we continued our quest to complete the 2020 Alabama Outdoor Adventurer State Parks Challenge and went waterfall hunting. We visited our third park, Oak Mountain State Park, to see the famed Peavine Falls and its seasonal 65-foot foss. Foss is Icelandic and Norwegian for waterfall. And I just like using it because it sounds fancy… f-AWE-ncy.

There are several ways to reach Peavine Falls, we used the Green Trail, the Green-White Connector, and the White Trail. From the parking lot, Green Trail ascended steeply along the ridgeline, followed by a rapid descent down the connector until we reached the White Trail and the creek. From there we crossed the creek and followed the signs to the top and then to the bottom of the falls. The creek crossing was the perfect place to test my new boots and how water impermeable they are, which is a fancy way of saying waterproof. At the top of the falls, we found pretty purple flowers called Bird’s Foot Violet. I know this because I had my wildflower field guide. The trip down to the bottom of the falls can best be described as wet and steep, and kind of slippery. Be careful going down.

Peavine Falls is magnificent and thunderous. When I crossed the pool at the base, I could feel a chilly gust of mist blowing from the cascade. We spent a lot of time taking pictures and exploring the area. If you go, plan on staying by the waterfall for at least 30 minutes so you can enjoy its beauty and a picnic lunch. You can sit on one of the many boulders. I recommend you bring a sweater to stay warm and a butt pad if you have a tender bottom. However, leave the hammock in the car because there are not many trees at the base of the falls.

I learned a new skill during this hike: how to photograph silky smooth waterfalls. When you take a picture of a waterfall, instead of it being more detailed and choppy, you can use a few tricks to make the water look smoother, like cascading silk threads or a bride’s wedding veil. To achieve this effect, you will need a tripod or sturdy surface to support your camera, a camera set to manual mode, and of course moving water. This is not a tutorial and I am not going to dig down deep on this subject. There are lots of great tutorials online. The gist of it is low ISO, small aperture, slow shutter speed… and lots of stabilization.

Peavine Falls frozen in time with a fast shutter speed.
Peavine Falls smoothed and gentled with slow shutter speeds.

So, I hope you enjoyed my tips and photographs. Definitely, check out Oak Mountain State Park and Peavine Falls for yourself. It’s absolutely worth the trip, especially after a rainy week. Onward!

Rain, rain don’t delay!
Come and fill the waterway.
Kailani wants to snap away.
Rain, rain don’t delay!

I want to stay here. You guys go ahead without me.

-Yonder Girl at the Best Tree Ever

I have accepted the Alabama Outdoor Adventurer 2020 State Parks Challenge to visit and photograph 15 of 19 eligible Alabama State Parks. Remember my New Year’s resolution to hike 100 miles in 2020? Well this will definitely help me get there. A State Parks Challenge means lots of new-to-me hikes, trails, sights, and adventure! Time to see Alabama and get out on the trail! I’M SO EXCITED!!! I’m going to be singing a lot because we’re going into the UNKNOWN… (hehe Frozen 2.)

Yonder Girl with Stripes on the Cutchemine Trail
Into the UNKNOWN!!!

This weekend we went to TWO of the nineteen eligible parks: Lake Guntersville and Bucks Pocket State Parks.

The view of Lake Guntersville from the Lodge
Lake Guntersville from the Lodge
Lake Guntersville State Park
#2020ALStateParksChallenge
#AlabamaOutdoorAdventurer

At Lake Guntersville, the Cutchemine Trail was an aquamarine, teal, and brilliant blue hike along an arm of the lake that ends at Dry Creek. All 5 miles of it out and back were spectacular! Our hike did not start off well: we trekked through 0.5 miles of wilderness on the faint, easy-to-lose Lower Cutchemine Trail from the parking lot to the Cutchemine Trailhead. We stumbled and crashed through the underbrush like hypercharged bowling balls just trying to stay on the trail, “Is the trail here? Is the trail there? Is that the trail? Do you see the road?” I got pricked 500 times and tripped 10 times. Thank goodness, Daddy walked back to get the car, so we didn’t have to hike through that again on the way out.

Waterfowl flocking at Lake Guntersville. Seen from the Cutchemine Trail.

Once we got onto the Cutchemine Trail, it was an obvious, wide, cleared path. From the bank, we could see flocks of waterfowl. My favorite spot is the towering Y-shaped oak tree. I could sit in the split and read all day. And sing all day. And draw all day. And hang out with my tiger, Stripes, all day. You know what we forgot to bring that would have made this day perfect? OUR HAMMOCK!

Yonder Girl sitting in the Best Tree Ever
The Best Tree Ever

Cutchemine ends at Dry Creek, which is an awesome place for a picnic. the rocks make the perfect place to spread out your lunch and rest your legs.

Yonder Girl and Daddy enjoying a picnic lunch.
Lunch break at Dry Creek

Bucks Pocket was… well, dark. We did a quick drive-by and mad dash down the boardwalk to photograph the famous tree at the end. We made it just in time to see the gradient, fiery, sunset canyon view. This is actually our second visit to Bucks Pocket. The first time we hiked from the bottom of the pocket to the lookout we visited this time. The hiking trails are currently closed for renovations. I’m really excited to see the repaired trails when they reopen.

The end of the Bucks Pocket boardwalk during sunset.
Where the Boardwalk Ends
Bucks Pocket State Park
#2020ALStateParksChallenge
#AlabamaOutdoorAdventurer

Who knows what the other 13 Alabama State Parks will be like? I’m hoping that they will be beautiful, with some mountains and valleys, and maybe even a sandy saltwater beach. Into the unknown. And ever, ONWARD!

A dried oak leaf hydrangea bloom
The remnants of an oak leaf hydrangea bloom.

Four years ago, I went to my first cave. It was dark at first, but then they turned on the lights. Since this was in Cathedral Caverns, a commercial cave, lights are placed in it; so it is much easier to see. On this visit we were walking down a dirt trail, and I thought I was going to fall because it was so steep. Later we got to the point where we couldn’t see any sunlight, but we saw beautiful formations on a pond like puddle. The formations were connected to the top and bottom of the cave. It was a solid piece of stone which reminded me of teeth. As the lights from beneath the water hit the formation, the colors changed allowing me to see the most brilliant accumulation of minerals. This scene is why I’m interested in caves. Plus, caves are a lot of fun because you can get muddy, crawl, slide, and climb inside holes and hidden passages.

Yonder Girl crawling in a tight passageway.
This is what I love best about caving: tight passages and lots of crawling.

Stephens Gap Callahan Cave Preserve

The first time I visited Stephens Gap, the spectacular scenery made my jaw drop from its sheer beauty. It looked like something out of this world. It was just too beautiful!!! My eyes were greeted with rainbows from the waterfalls and sunlight streaming in through the entrances above us. If you are claustrophobic, which is a fancy way of saying scared of tight spaces, this is a good cave for you.  

Light rays and waterfall pouring into Stephens Gap
Watch your step! It’s cool to sit in a sunbeam, but you’re taking a big risk. Tether up!

To get to the cave, you hike a short and steep trail a quarter of a mile to the cave. There is a creek beside the trail that originates from the waterfalls in the cave. Stephens Gap has two entrances: one in the ceiling and one walk-in entrance just above the pit floor. We used the latter, which required us to traverse a steep pile of loose rocks while paying close attention to our footsteps. For experts only: you can rappel through the ceiling entrance.

The two entrances of Stephens Gap
The two entrances of Stephens Gap: one rappel and one walk-in. The light rays that come through are spectacular.

When you get inside the cave, you will see really cool features. The most prominent is a 150 foot tall waterfall!!! The water flows from a fissure in the limestone. A popular formation is the stone pedestal. You may be tempted to pose on it for the perfect picture, but it is very dangerous because you can easily slip and tumble down to the sharp rocks and freezing cold water below. You may see people standing on the pedestal formation and even want to do the same thing, but be safe and always use safety ropes. Another cool feature is the small network of short tunnels toward the top of the dome. You can crawl around and explore, but be sure to wear a helmet.

To visit Stephens Gap, please visit the Southeastern Cave Conservancy to obtain more information, permits, and directions.

Bluff River Cave

This is my mom’s favorite wild cave because it is so wet that you will get your feet soaked and wade through waist-high water in a few parts. Kids will need a piggyback ride because the water is cold and deep. So, be prepared to get wet and be amazed! This cave route follows an underground stream bed over a mostly level elevation. Expect to traverse varying terrain including flat travertine, wet rocks, slippery mud slides, and breakdown.

Speleothems of all kinds can be found along the underground stream bed of Bluff River Cave.

To get to the cave, we hiked a quarter of a mile through the forest. At the entrance, we climbed down a short tunnel full of flying insects. Yonder Girl tip: Keep your mouth closed or the bugs will start bugging you!

OMG! I’m holding a cave spring crayfish! One quick second and I put it gently back in the water. Look how big it is! These guys, unlike cave crayfish, wash in from above ground and don’t live their whole life in the cave. A licensed biologist helped me hold this guy correctly. Normally, I wouldn’t and you shouldn’t pick up or touch any wildlife in caves. They are delicate.

We saw several kinds of animals; most were new to us. We came across two species of crayfish: cave spring crayfish and cave crayfish. Not only that, we also saw two species of salamanders: cave salamander and Tennessee cave salamander. Tetracion, also called cave millipedes, were the oddest animals we saw. However, the oddest organism we encountered was mold growing on a dead cricket. If you are like me, a person who is scared of wiggly things, such as worms, beware of the mud pile near the entrance because it is full of worms. I discovered this unpleasant surprise when I started climbing the hill to explore an upper passage. To me, it was gross. EWWW!!!!!

Moldy cave cricket
Moldy cave cricket. This is not the one we saw, but that’s pretty much what they look like.
Photo credit Alan Cressler.

Caves are mysterious and full of wonder, but they are also very delicate and easily damaged environments. The formations are cool, but delicate. The prettiest formations (in my opinion) are the calcite pools. Can you guess what happened that made me really mad and sad? What happened is that people destroyed some of the formations! I don’t know if they did it on purpose, hopefully they didn’t. We saw several examples of vandalism: trampled calcite pools, some NOT accurate words scratched into a fossilized rock, and muddy handprints on pure white calcite. The damage done will most likely last long past our lifetimes.

Look at these amazing speleothems! Stalagmites, stalactites, drapery, soda straws…
Photo Credit here and featured image belongs to Sunguramy Photography.

Sorry, I can’t tell you where this cave is. If you want to see it, you will have to ask a member of the Huntsville Grotto.

Be Prepared

It is important to be prepared before spelunking, which is a funny word for caving. You will need proper equipment and supplies, important information about the cave, and recent weather reports. Always remember it is never safe to cave alone, so you need to go with at least three other people.

Cave in groups of 4 or more for safety
Cave in groups of four or more.

Inside a wild cave, it is pitch black because you are underground. Therefore, you should always have three light sources: just in case you lose the first and the second light, you still have a third. Your light sources can be from a headlamp, a phone, a flashlight, or a combination of these. Without light, you won’t be able to navigate, which is dangerous and terrifying.

Sliding down a muddy hill in Tumbling Rock
You never know what terrain you’ll encounter. Being prepared is very important.

You need to dress appropriately, so that means not wearing your fanciest gown or tuxedo. One reason you should dress appropriately is because there are usually wet or cold conditions, tight spaces, uneven terrain. Like hiking, clothes worn for caving should be quick dry. Remember: cotton kills. I wear a non-cotton base layer to keep warm and comfortable. Over that, I wear sturdy shorts and shirt to protect my base layer from tearing on the rocks. While caving, chances are you will be walking over rocky terrain. For better traction and  warmth, I wear hiking boots and thick wool socks. Wool stays warm when wet: so if your feet get wet, they won’t be cold. To protect from bumps and abrasions, you will need a helmet, gloves, and knee pads. In some caves you will need to use elbow pads. Yonder Girl tip: get soft knee pads for extra grip.

Yonder Girl in a short passage in Tumbling Rock
Layers are key to staying warm and comfortable.

Caving uses a lot of energy. Keep up your energy by bringing… FOOD!!! Surprisingly, one snack that is good for caving are peanut M&Ms because they have protein and sugar. The next thing you will need is water. You should have enough water to last the whole trip.

Basic Caving Gear: What I Wear

  • Body Base Layer: quick dry long sleeve shirt and pants
  • Body Outer Layer: tough T-shirt and shorts
  • Helmet with headlamp
  • Elbow pads (sometimes)
  • Gloves
  • Knee pads
  • Wool socks
  • Grippy shoes with ankle support

Basic Caving Gear: What I Bring

  • Snacks and lunch
  • Water
  • 3 sources of light, including your headlamp

Before visiting a wild cave, you must get permission from the owner of the cave before you go exploring. That means getting a permit or talking to the owner first if there is no permit system. In a wild cave, bring a map of the cave with you, or go with an experienced caver that knows that cave. Cave maps are a little different than trail maps. They often contain critical information like ceiling height, cross-sectional view of major features, water depth, and landmarks.

Want to Know More?

For more information about caving safely, please visit the Huntsville Grotto and the National Speleological Society for resources. Huntsville Grotto periodically holds beginner cave trips, this would be a great way to start wild caving. If you enjoyed Sunguramy’s photos please visit her website and facebook page for more amazing, jaw-dropping cave photography. For classes on Single Rope Technique (SRT) for vertical caving not covered here, please visit the Huntsville Cave Rescue Unit (HCRU).

If you enjoyed this post, please consider making a gift to HCRU. They are a very important resource for not just the caving community, but all outdoor sports enthusiasts in North Alabama and beyond. Their members have led me safely through wild caves and taught me a lot about cave geology. YAY!!! They are all volunteers and save people in bad situations because they are just really kind. I have pledged a whole month of my allowance to them. Can you match my $25 or more please?

Resting in a cave
Remember: stay muddy on the inside.

House sized boulders. Rock climbers. Hidden tunnels. Lots of trees. Swarms of lady bugs. Views for miles. This is what we found at Cherokee Rock Village in Leesburg, AL and it was all so BEAUTIFUL!

Right away, you see giant boulders from the parking lot. We spent plenty of time climbing up and down the rocks. At the top of the rocks, you are treated to fantastic views of lakes, forest, and the town below. Sometimes it took a few tries to make it to the top, but it’s always worth it. On some of the rocks, there were swarms of lady bugs that kept crawling on us. WARNING- Ladybugs bite.

Cherokee Rock Village
Climbing down a house sized boulder at Cherokee Rock Village.

Down in the rocks, we discovered lots of cool features like holes, crevices, tunnels, and caves. This means it was also a great place to play hide and seek, but no good for tag because you could trip on tree roots and little rocks in the ground.

Cherokee Rock Village
Walking through a tunnel between boulders at Cherokee Rock Village.

The giant rocks here are great for climbing, but can hurt your hands. They were studded with little white oval pebbles, like concrete with pebbles in it. It made climbing the rocks easier because your shoes could grip better onto the the little pebbles. Cherokee Rock Village

Grippy shoes and studded rocks make for gravity defying climbing fun.My favorite boulder is in the Bluff Area of the park. It is so perfect because it has a bowl-shaped hole that is just the right size for me. Even better, it has both back and leg rests! It’s like a recliner, but made out of rock. Mom tried to sit in it too, but she didn’t fit well. It was way too small for her. She got stuck!! (hee hee hee)

Cherokee Rock Village
Resting up while cradled by my favorite rock. My favorite rock is PERFECT!!!

We saw lots of people camping along the Bluff Area and Boulder Area of the park. I want to go back and camp. Mostly, I want to sit in my favorite rock again and look at the stars. Mom says she’d camp here because the bathrooms and showers are clean.

Trail Summary: Cherokee Rock Village

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